Updated (initially posted July 2019)
I spent a week driving myself around the Western and Southern parts of Iceland early one summer. I would do it again tomorrow if I could, with a few adjustments. If you are thinking about a driving trip through Iceland, here are a few takeaways that might help you plan your trip.
1) Dial down the pace of your itinerary
Whatever pace you are considering for your trip, I recommend slowing it down. Iceland lived up to all of the hype. It is a stunningly beautiful place and you’ll want to explore it.
I realize that people have different travel styles. Some like to see as much of a place as possible, ticking off the highlights in the guidebook, no matter how short the time. Other people don’t mind seeing fewer places to have a more in-depth experience at each stop. I usually fall into the second camp so my itinerary was slow-paced to begin with. Still, once I was actually there, I found myself wanting more time at each spot.
Iceberg chunks float out to sea at the black sand Diamond Beach in southern Iceland. © 2018 Elizabeth Acevedo
In Southern Iceland, a lot of the must-see spots are located right off of the Ring Road, making them easy to access. As a result, when you look at the map and figure out driving distances, it seems like you can fit in a few, or even several, stops a day. But what the map doesn’t reveal is that the locations are so beautiful, you won’t want to rush off. I had to tear myself away from places like Diamond Beach (above) and Jokulsarlon glacier lagoon (below).
A common eider paddles near an iceberg at Jokulsarlon glacier lagoon in southern Iceland. © 2018 Elizabeth Acevedo
There also are tons of opportunities to take short (or long) walks and hikes around the other-worldly Icelandic landscapes. The picture to the right , for example, was taken on the easy walking path to the glacier’s edge in Skaftafell National Park, which has a seemingly endless array of trails of all lengths and levels of difficulty. When I planned my trip, I thought that I had allowed plenty of time for photography (my main interest) plus a few short hikes here and there, but the time almost always went too quickly.
Also, having more time and flexibility than you think you’ll need can help when the fatigue of driving alone sets in. Being tired and having no one to take over the wheel isn’t a great situation. Days when I had extra time to stop for breaks were so much more comfortable and fun than the days that I planned things a little too tightly. And because the weather in Iceland changes frequently and dramatically, the driving conditions on any given stretch might be more difficult than you anticipated.
One thing that limited my flexibility was that I booked my lodging in advance. It’s just my preference when I travel alone to know ahead of time where I will be staying each night. So, even though I’d still do it next time, I might do it differently. The local inns tend to have limited check-in times, usually only until 7 or 8pm. That meant that, each day, I had to arrive at the next inn by a certain time. With 22 hours of daylight, it was easy to loose track of time. Next time, I might stay for multiple nights in one spot or cover shorter total distances each day to alleviate some of the time pressure.
2) Spring for a few tech essentials – a portable wifi hotspot and local SIM card
Having a portable wifi hotspot made a huge difference while driving around Iceland. I really recommend having one with you. I rented one when I arrived from Trawire at the Reykjavik airport but could have gotten one through my rental car company, which would have been easier. The hotspot meant I was able to use google maps everywhere I went. It also allowed me to text and call with WhatsApp, and email when I was away from the guesthouse or hotel wifi, which was most of the time.
Couple hiking at Skaftafell National Park, Iceland. © 2018 Elizabeth Acevedo
Staying connected on vacation may not seem very appealing if you are trying to relax and enjoy the travel experience. When traveling alone though, being able to reach people, even if strictly for safety reasons, is pretty essential. Which brings me to my next point …
I opted not to get a local SIM card for my cell phone but really wished I had. I decided not to get one because I had read that people were able to get cellular service with Verizon’s international plan. That was not my experience. I actually got zero cell service the whole time I was in Iceland. I probably wouldn’t have noticed or cared except when the battery died in the rental car and I discovered that I could not call the local rental car company or anyone else locally for help. I was lucky in a lot of ways: it happened right outside of my guesthouse, during work hours, the manager was there and kindly called the car company for me, and the mechanic in the little town happened to be just around the corner. I lost a few hours that morning but that was the worst of it. There were any number of other times when I was at somewhat remote locations at very odd hours to catch sunset or sunrise with only maybe one or two other photographers around, if anyone. Having car trouble at any of those places with no cell service would have been much more complicated. With the wifi hotspot, I could have emailed or texted through WhatApp someone somewhere and asked them to contact local help, but who knows when I actually would have reached someone.
Go for the portable wifi hotspot and the local SIM card.
3) Get a little more car than you need
For seeing the main sights on or near the Ring Road, a regular rental car was totally sufficient. I opted for all-wheel-drive, which added some peace of mind and, in my opinion, was worth the extra cost. Some of the popular tourist sites are on rugged gravel roads, even if they are just off the main highway. And as mentioned, the weather changes often and quickly. I found myself driving through light snow and sleet on a mountain pass one evening and returning over the same pass the next day in bright sunshine on clean roads. I didn’t end up using the all-wheel drive but was glad to have a little extra control just in case.
4) Stay at guesthouses and small inns along the drive
You will find lots of guesthouses and small inns along the drive but very few big hotels. The inns that I tried were all very comfortable, clean and moderately priced. All of them were in great locations and had views that ranged from pretty to jaw-dropping beautiful. My favorites were the River Hotel in Hella and Littli Geysir near the Geysir (although the latter might not be small anymore as there was a new building going up while I was there).
As I mentioned, be sure to pay attention to the latest time that you can check-in. They are small operations and don’t have a 24-hour reception desk. Also, it seems that most inns offer breakfast but do not have a full restaurant for lunch and dinner. Littli Geysir and Hotel Smyrlabjorg were exceptions with nice, casual restaurants that served dinner.
5) Be ready for one-lane bridges and sheep
The Ring Road and other main roads were well-maintained and easy to drive. One minor exception was the one-lane bridges, especially on the southern part of the Ring Road. There are small waiting areas on the shoulder just before the bridge to let oncoming cars pass and then you take your turn crossing the bridge. It can feel a little dicey if traffic is moving quickly and cars in either direction arrive at the bridge at the same time. By the end of the trip, I had gotten used to navigating them. I thought I’d mention them here though so they don’t take you by surprise.
Speaking of surprises, the sheep that dart, or just mosey, across the highway will keep you on your toes. Sheep crossed my path from time to time throughout my drive. All I could do was keep an eye out for them.
The one lane bridge at Jokulsarlon crosses over the glacier lagoon in southern Iceland. © 2018 Elizabeth Acevedo
Copyright © 2019 Elizabeth Acevedo. All rights reserved.